Escape from Salta

I hung out in Salta City for several days before leaving for Cafayate, and then foolishly planned another full day in Salta before leaving for Tilcara, Jujuy (pronounced roughly “hoo-HUEY!”).

Kids, Salta is indeed linda. Salta is also a 2-day town.



But it’s pretty at night.


In the next hostel, the Antigua Tilcara, I arrived later than I’d thought I would and they do not enjoy a 24-hour reception. After a few hundred knocks and rings of the doorbell, a hostel GUEST eventually let me in. I believe we woke the owner together, and I was tucked into a room in which my TWO GERMAN FRIENDS FROM THE PRIOR HOSTEL WERE ALSO THERE. Hashtag, tourist circuit. Hashtag, welcome to Salta. Hashtag, Germanic hivemind.


The view from the hostel, and indeed, from everywhere in Tilcara, was stunning.


Tilcara is not a huge town. Jujuy is the most heavily indigenous province of Argentina, and far enough north that the culture starts feeling fairly Andean (a la Peru). It is close to 100% Catholic (except the many, many tourists).


Yes, the below photo features road signs pointing to specific hostels. No, this is not far from the “downtown.” I am told that there are fewer than six thousand residents in the entire area.


Behold, the downtown.


Filled with foreigner bars, friendly locals and a whole lot of nothing, it would be the perfect Andean town if you could get a cup of coffee for love or money. 


The end of town that contains the bus station. It’s around half a mile from the other end of town.

I tried to track down a fancy restaurant featured by Lonely Planet. I went to a restaurant that was open (it was not peak season).


The weather was sublime.



Tilcara was probably one of the highlights of my time in Argentina. Far from being just a quiet tourist town, it gets lively and excessively Catholic sometimes–but we’ll get to that…


Come back next time for the famous Quebrada de Humahuaca!



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